As a child, I vividly remember sitting cross-legged on the rug in front of the TV at my granny’s house, with the volume turned up and the room filled with the sound of a Scottish brass band.
I watched group after group of people go out and fill the space in front of an amazing looking castle while girls in kilts danced in circles.
I’ve seen Scottish marching bands in school playgrounds in my native New Zealand, but that’s nothing compared to the scale.
Some twenty years later, the anticipation in the air was palpable when people from all over the world gathered in the stands atop Edinburgh’s Castle Rock. I felt excitement seething in my chest, like I was a kid again, eagerly waiting for the show to start.
The Royal Edinburgh Military Tattoo takes place in Festival season in Edinburgh in August. It is a truly international event, with performers from all over the world and different countries participating every year.
The audience is also international, usually made up of one-third international, one-third Scottish and one-third other UK.
In addition, approximately 100 million people around the world watched the show on television. that’s right. Millions of people watch the Edinburgh Military Tattoo every year and it goes from strength to strength!
But what are Edinburgh military tattoos?
If you’ve never had the opportunity to experience a military tattoo elsewhere, you may be wondering what I’m talking about.
First of all, this has nothing to do with tattoos! The name “tattoo” comes from the 17th and 18th centuries, when cries of “doe den tap toe” (meaning “turn off the tap”), flutes and drums signaled to soldiers that the pub was closed and they had to Return to the barracks.
Fast forward to the present and Scottish military tattoos are known as musical performances or displays of the armed forces. But even if you’ve been to another Scottish military tattoo, the most famous and grand is the Royal Edinburgh Military Tattoo, affectionately known in Edinburgh as “The Tattoo”.
The story behind the Royal Edinburgh Military Tattoo
The first official Edinburgh military tattoo was held in 1950 when 6,000 people sat on wooden benches on the Esplanade at Edinburgh Castle for an eight-part show that was more about military prowess and their ability.
Today, performances range from marching bands to singing and dancing, and even acrobatics.
If you’re visiting Edinburgh from July to September, you can’t miss the stands on the Esplanade at Edinburgh Castle, where around 220,000 people sit to watch the show.
It is held in August alongside other popular Edinburgh festivals such as the Edinburgh Fringe and the Edinburgh International Festival (you can read a quick guide to all the Edinburgh festivals Edinburgh’s festivals in August are here! ).
Since the first Edinburgh Tattoo in 1950, no show has been canceled despite the vagaries of Scottish weather. So be sure to bring a warm and waterproof jacket!
What to expect from Edinburgh’s Royal Military Tattoo
Top notch show, entertainment and fun
But what do you actually see if you get tickets for a tattoo?
Each year has a different theme, with one of the British Armed Forces leading the Military Tattoo, but groups from around the world also perform.
When I go to Edinburgh for a tattoo I see everything from huge Scottish brass bands to jazz and blues singing Americans, New Zealanders playing rugby and dancing, motorcycle stunts, Shetlan fiddlers, Highland dancers and more .
You can enjoy a variety of performances and entertainment designed to showcase talent from around the world.
During the performance, Edinburgh Castle acts like another actor, with videos and pictures projected onto the façade. So many cables are used in the show to get all this right, if they were lined up in a straight line they would stretch from Edinburgh to Glasgow!
While the performances are different every year, some things remain the same.
The Edinburgh Military Tattoo is always accompanied by a brass band marching across the drawbridges of Edinburgh Castle. Just before the show ended, a lone piper played from the top of Edinburgh Castle.
The first piper, Major George Stoddart, played every show for the first 11 years, and since then his son, Major Gavin Stoddart, has taken over the piper.
Each performance concluded with an intro to the famous Robert Burns song “Auld Lang Syne,” as attendees clasped their neighbors’ hands and sang along.
The thing is, Edinburgh tattoos are so unique that it’s hard to explain the experience, and it’s one of the best things to see for yourself.
While the show has toured overseas four times in the past, including all the way to New Zealand and Australia, complete with a model of Edinburgh Castle, there’s nothing like seeing it in person, and for many, it’s a – An experience of a lifetime.
How to get tickets to Edinburgh Military Tattoo 2023
Official tickets for the Royal Edinburgh Military Tattoo can be booked online. Showings will be from Friday 4th August 2023 to Saturday 26th August 2023.
Tickets for the Edinburgh Military Tattoo usually sell out well in advance so if you’re planning to visit Edinburgh in summer 2023 then I’d recommend getting your tickets as soon as possible, although you might snag some last-minute seats as well, so keep an eye out.
There is also a preview before the season starts, and tickets go on sale only before the season starts.
Click here to buy tickets Royal Edinburgh Military Tattoo 2023.
Best seats for tattoos in Edinburgh
Choosing the best seat for Edinburgh Tattoo really comes down to personal preference and budget.
The higher-priced tickets are at the end of the Esplanade, where you can directly see Edinburgh Castle. These tickets are widely considered the best because you can see everything head-on.
However, sitting on either side of the Corniche won’t give you a bad view anyway. The show can be viewed from all angles so you won’t miss it.
Personally, I think the best seats for military tattoos are a little further away from the castle, from the middle to the sides.
That way, the price is more affordable and you can see everything projected on the castle and all the bands coming your way for longer.
Of course, if you can shell out the big bucks for castle-facing tickets, you should!
The Royal Edinburgh Military Tattoo is part of the Royal Edinburgh Military Tattoo edinburgh festivalmaking Edinburgh an international festival city.
There are 10 festivals throughout the year and five Edinburgh festivals in August (check out this A Quick Guide to the August Festivals).
All the festivals in Edinburgh should be on your bucket list (that’s why), but the Edinburgh Military Tattoo has a special place in my heart.
I may have seen it on TV as a kid, but there’s nothing like seeing sight and sound come together to form a truly brilliant show, the Royal Military Edinburgh Tattoo. This is an unforgettable and unique experience!
Have you seen Edinburgh tattoos in person or on TV? Tell me about your experience!
read more: Why festivals in Edinburgh must be on your bucket list
read more: A quick guide to Edinburgh festivals in August
read more: 50+ fun things to do in Edinburgh)
Sonya X
Over the years I have had the honor of being invited to perform at the Edinburgh Festival, but of course all opinions are my own. I’ve been on my own too and will go again and again! This article was originally written in 2016. If you like it, please like it!
