While Gandhinagar may be the official capital of Gujarat – Ahmedabad (or Amdavad) leads the forefront, portraying the enterprise haven and the exceptional cultural heritage of the state. Anciently known as Karnavati of Karanadev, or Ashawal of Asha Bhil, this city eventually acquired its name from the Britishers who spelt it as Ahmedabad. Gujjus, however, like to call it Amdavad, and themselves as Amdavadis. Irrespective of what you call it, Ahmedabad finds a way to astound you with its incredible architecture that varies from centuries-old temples to mosques to pioneering designs to the medieval quarter, where the city’s tight lanes harbour drama around every pretzeled corner.
Bequeathed with a rich architectural heritage, embracing the gated community, the Pols (traditional residential clusters), and Indo-Islamic monuments dating back to the 15th-century, Amdavad has a spirit like no other, making it an exceptional destination worth experiencing! To get the real flavour of the burg, take the Ahmedabad Heritage Walk that will introduce you to 22 landmarks, all confined within the historic walled city recorded as UNESCO’s World Heritage City in India. Take a look!
Swaminarayan Temple, Kalupur
The first prominent landmark I visited during my Ahmedabad Heritage Walk was Swaminarayan Temple in the Kalupur area. It’s here that this 2 km heritage walk starts, and after touring 18 other sites in over two hours, it finally concludes at the 14th-century Jama Masjid. Constituted in the guidance of Swaminarayan, Shree Swaminarayan Mandir Kalupur is the first-ever temple of the Swaminarayan Sampraday, kenned as the base of the Nar Narayan Dev Gadi.
This fairytale temple, deemed a precious cultural heritage of Gujarat, is built with intricate carvings in pure Burma-teak picturing holy icons and deities, delineating aphoristic Indian culture. Each of its deep-coloured arch and opulent carvings stands out and resembles a lavishly embellished palace. The roof of the Swaminarayan Temple’s beetled pavilions takes its inspiration from Mughal architecture, wherein the central and the northern gateway combine regional and British styles of architecture. The temple columns are embedded, with vertical partitions in the Corinthian order.
Lambeshwar Ni Pol
From the Swaminarayan Mandir, I took to Kavi Dalpatram Chowk and Lambeshwar ni Pol. A Pol is a residential cluster that covers families connected by caste, profession, or religion. The legacy of these Pols benefited Ahmedabad in achieving a spot on UNESCO’s list of heritage sites.
Kavi Dalpatram Chowk
This Chowk (open market area at the junction of two roads) is a tribute to Dalpatram, an 18th-century scholar and poet who acted as a Sanskrit teacher to British colonial administrator Alexander Kinloch Forbes. Originally, Kavi Dalpatram wrote his poems in his native language Brajbhasha, however, after Forbes inspired him to write in Gujarati, he wrote Laxmi Natak in 1849. Laxmi Natak was deemed the first modern play of Gujarat and earned this progressive writer the title of a renowned poet of Gujarati literature. This Chowk at Lambeshwar ni pol was his home during his days of literature, and thus Kavi Dalpatram Chowk was later refurbished into Dalpatram Memorial, portraying his literary creativity.
Sanket, my tour guide, told me that Tulsi Manch, the original house was destroyed in 1985, after which a memorial was resurrected, to which a bronze statue was added in 2001. This new house in the frame was constructed, piloting design references of the closeby residences. I didn’t get to visit the house from inside but, the front façade with the Dalpatram statue gives an adequate impression of the poet’s early days. The bronze statue of Kavi Dalpatram sits with one leg folded and a book in his lap. In modern times, this Chowk is essentially utilised as a landmark for the heritage walk and community gathering by the locals.
Calico Dome
The Calico Dome is the 1st-space-frame structure of India: that was designed by Gira and Gautam Sarabhai and inaugurated in the early 19th-century. Gautam engineered the dome, wherein Gira added to its detailing. This 5-pointed dome was raised by 8-curved iron struts and strengthened by steel tubes and pillars; its awning was made of diamond-shaped plywood blanks secured by steel studs. A pair of enchased steel lotuses haunch the trails leading to the platform, and the underground showroom is a single square room. This geodesic dome on relief road derived an impulse from Buckminster Fuller’s works but plunged into decrepitude and collapsed after the mills were shut in 1990. AMC reconstructed this structural system in 2019 as an industrial heritage site.
Kala Ramji Mandir
Another fascinating place of worship I discovered during my Ahmedabad Heritage Walk is this 400-year-old temple where you will find a rare statue of Lord Ram made in black marble stone. This Haveli Mandir is significant to heritage walk as one portion of it has the temple, and the rest has the residential complex.
Shantinathji Mandir, Haja Patel Ni Pol
Next was the Shantinathji Mandir, Haja Patel Ni Pol, where Sanket, our guide, stopped and pinpointed towards the outstretched carvings that exhibit the pastoral life of the Pols. Built in 1923 by Shah Vakhatchand Malichand, this building houses a 19-inch idol of Shantinath Tirthankar.
This splendidly carved wooden Pol besides Shantinath nu Derasar invites you to an epoch consummated by silence, that often is splintered by masticating cows and chatters of the residents on the “Otla.” Shantinath Derasar is truly visually pleasing, more so, as you explore the grandeur of its delicate wood carvings across its Jalis, roof, panels, and windows. At the time Relief Road was constructed, Shantinathji Mandir was moved inside and rebuilt from marble and wooden elements from the preceding temple.
Kuvavala Khancha, Doshivada Ni Pol
While ambling through the narrow streets of Ambli Ni Pol, I promenaded across Kuvavala Khancho, a junction near Shantinathji ni Pol that has adjoining wells, giving it its name Kuva, meaning a well and Khancha, meaning a passage.
This cosmopolitan well-passage comprises four different homes fronting each other that has on display European, Persian, Mughal, and Maratha architecture echoing their respective periods. Each of these homes features the emblems of the former keepers over the doors. While here, do take a look at the Parrot Holes on the walls of each house that allow Parrots and other birds to build their nests in deficiency of trees.
Secret Passage, Shantinath Ni Pol
What fascinated me about the Ahmedabad Heritage Walk is that this Pol Walkthrough in an enclosed neighbourhood is stacked, with many gates and secret passages. I read somewhere that the historical literature has recorded nearly 600 pols with a history of denominational verbal contention. The reason these narrow settlements exist is that each community wanted to secure themselves during successive invasions.
ZaveriVad
ZaveriVad on relief road is another neighbourhood close to the Swaminarayan Temple that is largely colonised by the goldsmith community. In here, you will see a good deal of extravagantly decorated Haveli types of residences.
Sambhavnath Ni Khadki
Sambhavnath Ni Khadki, at Sambhavnathji Derasar, they say, is the oldest Jain temple in Ahmedabad from 1662 A.D. As per the temple wall epitaph, the original construction was carved in wood. However, later in 1904, this temple was reconstructed in marble stone. Interestingly one only gets to see Shikhara and domes upon entering the edifice, as the Derasar is built underground. Admire-worthy architecture, I’d say!
Chaumukhji Ni Pol
Previously known as Satharni Khadki, Chaumukhji Ni Khadki, at Chaumukhji Ni Pol, with its Hindu-Jain architecture, is located right next to the Vaishnav sect Haveli of Gunsaiji. This temple took its name after the Jain Derasar of Chaumukhji, and archaeologists suggest that the remains of a 10th-century Derasar can be found in Ajitnathji Derasar in this neighbourhood.
Astapadji Derasar
Towards the closing edge of Doshiwada Ni Pol is this marble Derasar of Ashtapadji built by Sheth Maganlal Karamchand. Astapadji Derasar is an 18th-century temple decorated with an elaborate Hindu–Jain style of architecture where you will see animals, floral designs and motifs dancing and playing musical instruments.
On the inside, you will find the idols of Sheth, Shethani, Adishwar Bhagavan and Mahavir Swami. Of all the statues inside the premises, 32 are of Ratikar Parvat’s red marble, 16 of Dadhimukh Parvat’s red marble and four from Nandishwar Island’s Anjangiri Parvat’s black marble. A Jain shop alongside the Derasar sells all the five essential articles carried by a Jain Svetambar Monk.
Harkunvar Shethani Ni Haveli
As told by Sanket, my tour guide, Harkunvar Shethani Ni Haveli, is a 180-year-old Haveli that accommodates 60 rooms with overlong pillared balconies, held by Ahmedabad’s most extended wooden bracket in the old city. The remarkable wood carvings here will seamlessly draw you into its fold by its Indo-Chinese architectural elements. The 6-legged Chinese clawed dragon in here represents Imperial east, Ming emperor, sunrise and positive energies. In China, you will find similar designs on the beams and pillars as a form of Imperial decoration.
Dodiya Haveli
Dodiya Haveli is a small, archaic haveli that has been tastefully decorated and is the best place to stay if you want to tour the nearby Jain temples. This living heritage (now converted into a boutique heritage home) is an unusual mark of how Gujarati families live in the POLs. Even though I didn’t visit it from inside, its carved facade is quite pictorial, and this Haveli is one of those buildings that are sure to carry you back in time.
Fernandez Bridge/Gandhi Road
The Fernandes Bridge is a book lover’s delight. Although the bridge saw an extension as Gandhi Road in the 18th-century, it has been serving as the heirloom of roadside stalls for over 100 years. This prominent street is one of the oldest in Ahmedabad that connects books with its readers. You ‘simply’ can’t escape the booksellers here that will leave to stone unturned to persuade persuading you to buy books from their stalls.
Chandla Ol
To buy brass Pooja items in Ahmedabad: go to Chandla Ol, the oldest and largest market that stocks everything from idols, Sev-Sancha, Puja Thali, statues, Copper Lota, brass camps, lemon saucer, Puri press to everything you may need to light up a festive occasion.
Mahurat Pol
As its name implies, Mahurat Ni Pol is one of the oldest settlements of Ahmedabad that the Jain community chose as their home in the 15th century. And the reason why this Pol is vital to Ahmedabad is that its establishment marked the beginning of the city’s expansion process. Chronicles suggest that this Pol, dwelling nearly 100 jewellery shops, was instituted by Mehmud Begda in the 14th-century. Although in the present times, only a few families stay here.
Ahmedabad Stock Exchange
Right opposite Mahurat Ni Pol is the Ahmedabad Stock Exchange, the 2nd-oldest exchange in India that was constituted in the 18th-century following the Bombay Stock Exchange.
Rani-No-Haziro
Built in the 15th-century by Sultan Ahmed Shah, Rani no Hajiro is a burial chamber that served as the ultimate resting place for the queens of the ruling empire. The walls enclosing these graves are built from stones wherein the burial place is in the centre, separated by a veranda. Legend has it that the open-air courtyard of Rani-No-Haziro was commensurated, to the liking of Ahmad Shah’s queen. Rani-No-Haziro is also a great building to experience a fabulous mix of Jain, Hindu and Islamic culture, with its walls and domes showcasing intricate designs and carvings.
Badshah-No-Haziro
Then we have Badshah No Hajiro or Raja No Hajiro, the prized tomb of Sultan Ahmed Shah. Located near Jama Mosque and Manek Chowk, this 14th-century old mosque feigns special religious significance. It is also a popular tourist hotspot because it flaunts exquisite architecture. Badshah No Hajiro is designed, in a square shape, with multiple porticos, windows pierced with holes and breathtaking carvings. While women are not allowed inside, men must cover their heads before entering Badshah No Hajiro.
Jumma Masjid Ahmedabad
Planned by Sultan Ahmed Shah, the Jama/Jami Masjid of Ahmedabad is the most magnificent mosque built in the fourteenth century. Backed by 260 pillars, this remarkable Masjid in Ahmedabad dwells in the heart of the old city containing 15 domes and extends from the Maidan-i Shah to Teen Darwaza with three arches. This Indo-Islamic mosque serving Islamic patrons is built of yellow sandstone, and in the earlier days, Jama Masjid was incipiently reserved, for the private use of the sultans. Later on, this building was restored edifice by applying items retrieved from the razed Hindu temples.
Manek Chowk
And our tour that started at Swaminarayan Mandir finally concluded at Manek Chowk Jumma Masjid at 11.30 am.
Where to stay: The House of MG (Mangaldas) is my top pick in Ahmedabad. What served as the residence of Shree Mangaldas in the 20th-century, is now a heritage hotel that offers modern facilities such as a large outdoor swimming pool, 38 lavishly furnished rooms and suites, great food and a 24-hour front desk to cater to all your enquiries. It’s a unique home away from home!
PS: I took this heritage walk at the invitation of the Gujarat Tourism Board and Ministry of Tourism, India, however, the views expressed are personal.
