On a recent trip, I drove nearly 600 kilometers from Ahmedabad to Kutch, passing through contrasting cities such as Vadnagar, Patan, Modra and Dassada.
Tradition, heritage and magnificent temple architecture signify this legend and lion state, and I have always cherished my heart. Every time I visit Gujarat, every corner and corner has contrasting features and colors, which makes people immersed in it. There are so many that it is almost impossible to reveal the universality of its subtle gathering of rituals and aesthetics in a short essay.
Instead, travel and embrace the custom: like the little Ganesha idol sitting on the dashboard of your rental car, the big tribe Natini cleverly tucked into the neat hairstyles of Gujarati women, the chai exuded the scent of ginger, The tantalizing smell of freshly fried fafdas drags the small details from the greasy Tikadai or the threshold of a huge temple on a winding road.
This is the ultimate rendezvous with the country’s culture and heritage. On a recent trip, I drove nearly 600 kilometers from Ahmedabad to Kutch, passing through contrasting cities such as Vadnagar, Patan, Modra and Dassada. These cities ultimately recorded the social dynamics of Gujarat, depicting the same culture, but with a unique history and unique architecture. Let me explain!
Vadnagar-Ancient Link
Nearly 100 kilometers away AhmedabadAfter that, we made a short stop in Vadnagar, an ancient city with a looming past. It’s not as cold as you think in winter, and Vardnagar is quite warm during the day. As we approached the arched gate of the Vadnagar Railway Station in the 18th century, Girish Gupta was covered in quartz pink, and our expert guide reiterated how this small town in the Mehsana district of Gujarat was covered by the characteristics of the 3rd century and the eighth century Mahabharata Buddha.
Bodhisattva, Mahabharata and Tolan
The past fifty centuries can be easily boiled down to hanging textile threads, pottery remnants, ornaments and tool remnants. Anartapura (or Anandapura) is often mentioned in the “Book of Past”. Vadnagar has left an extraordinary memory for the history of Gujarat and endowed some of Gujarat’s greatest poets, novelists, musicians, artists and performers. When strolling through the streets of Vadnagar here, experience the non-linear perception of time as the times merge. Touch the 12th-century trails, sandwiched between old houses full of artistic gates, Tolan carvings abandoned by the Solanki dynasty, and dedicated stupas of Buddhist monasteries in the embattled area.
Enjoy a good cup of tea at a local stall, grab a plate of soft spongy Dhokla from a roadside restaurant, and visit the old city, which is surrounded by six guarded walls. Walking through the Hatkeshwar Mahadev Temple, the cut lines of Mahabharat and Ramayana are displayed on its Shikhar, a perfect sign of the sediments of the era. Next, I stopped at Patan, the medieval capital of the Chalukya and Chavda dynasties.
Patan: Medieval capital
Established by King Vanraj Chavada on the Saraswati River, as “Anhilpur-Patan”, Patan is today known as the hometown of Rani Ki Vav and Salvi. Since the 11th century, the only company in the universe that weaves authentic Patola yarn Korea. Over the years, this small town has been ruled by several Hindu and Muslim dynasties, and it is also one of the best cities to observe the countless influences of Islamic architecture in India. After enjoying a quick lunch at a local restaurant, I went to see Rani Ki Vav, which is an incredible place for sightseeing and aerobics.
This step well with an inverted temple design occupies an area of 11.6 acres and is beautifully landscaped. It may be the remains of the ancient Patan who inherited the Chavdas’ Chaulukya dynasty. Rani Ki Vav, the Queen’s Step Well, is divided into seven stairs, highlighting the sanctity of water. The ladder well has 500 statues of Vishnu and more than 1,000 other mythological illustrations. In the late 12th century, Allauddin Khilji destroyed Patan into ruins. The current town then jumped to the vicinity of the ruins of Anhilwara.
In the 13th century, Patan was the headquarters of the Sultanate of Delhi until the Sultanate of Gujarat took over and turned it into the capital in the 14th century. Although the ancient fortress of the Hindu empire has almost disappeared, you can still see one of its walls from Rani ki vav. The new fortress (later built by Subas) retains some old city gates! In addition to art, architecture and textiles, you can also visit the “old” large Patan market that has been operating steadily since the rule of Vaghelas.
Modhera: Temple of the Sun and Step Well
In the evening, nearly an hour away from Patan, we continued to drive to Modhera, another small village in the Mehsana district. Modhera was formerly known as Dharmaranya, and it will attract you with its Puranic era connection. Historical records indicate that in Modra, Lord Ram organized a sacrificial event to get rid of the moral guilt of killing Brahman Lobna. Then he built Modherak, later known as Modhera.
Although I couldn’t explore the other elements of this beautiful city on the banks of the Pushparvati River, I did visit Modra Sun Temple, An architectural masterpiece of the Chaulukya era. The 11th century architecture of Modhera Sun Temple will surely leave you stunned! It is more like a golden explosion, dotted with some of the greatest sculptures of all time. What’s more, in the evening, the temple lit up hundreds of lights and turned into an indescribable magical stage. Those who may have time must also visit the 16th century Gyaneshwari step wells and shrines in the village.
Dasada: Wildlife and Salt Observation
We completed the journey from Modhera to Dasada in one and a half hours on National Highway 19. Rann Riders is a charming ethnic destination resort located between swamps and farmland pastures, making it a perfect night residence. The countryside surrounded by Rann Riders, lush indoor plantations, well-designed cottages, popular cultural performances and fresh farm food eliminate every sign of fatigue. I think Rann Riders is an ideal base for anyone who wants to explore the wildlife, culture, salt pans, weavings and handicrafts of Dasada.
The next day, Rann Riders organized a jeep tour to let me cross Little Rann in Kutch. This side of Kachi is a bird watching paradise, and it is also a good place to watch Asian wild donkeys and salt marshes. The afternoon ended with me drinking black tea with a salt harvester. After a quick meal at Rann Riders, we started our journey to REAL Rann of Kutch.
Catch Rann: White Desert
Finally, from the third day I left Ahmedabad, I arrived at the Laluji & Sons tent city in Kachi and experienced Rann Utsav’s large-scale activities. Rann Utsav, known by many as the White Desert Festival, is a carnival of colors, heritage, culture and gastronomy in Dhordo. This village, like all other miracles that enhance its beauty, celebrates nature with affection. I came here at the invitation of Gujarat Tourism Bureau, and I have to admit that the arrangement is very ambitious.
I live in a high-end tent, equipped with all modern facilities, such as a queen-size bed, a separate lounge area, a separate dressing area and an attached bathroom with high-end toiletries. The air-conditioned tents are also equipped with a work desk, telephone and tea/coffee making facilities. Now let me tell you something about Rann Utsav!
This festival not only allows you to embrace the infinite view of the soothing and calm barren salt landscape, but also allows you to witness the rich cultural and artistic heritage of Cachi and neighboring villages? Although this event is so “special” that it took place on the border between India and Pakistan, it brings you closer to the locals in a way you can’t imagine. For the best experience: stay in the tent city and feel the surreal decoration of Rann Utsav. Whether traveling to the vast landscape of the White Salt Desert or visiting nearby villages, experience the local culture and the various art forms they produce and sell.
Staying in the tent city, you can experience pottery making, buy handicrafts, ride ATV, camel and golf carts to admire the surrounding environment, and even enjoy paramotors, yoga, stargazing and authentic Gujarati cuisine.
