The streets of Varanasi are full of secrets and Malayo is one of them. There is something incredibly ethereal about the combination of milk, Kesar pista and dew, making this delicious treat so light and fluffy. This is a well kept secret in Varanasi and it is as delicious as it looks.
A story of butter and divine love that spans like a vine through the centuries. So powerful it breaks the norm – the story of Lord Krishna and his buttery form. How he smiled when he stole it from far lands, and showed his people that it was but a lark.
“Butter is very important to the people of India,” explains a Sadhu Baba of Harishchandra Ghat in Varanasi, kneading soft ghee with his hands while offering a small portion of Malaiyo to Lord Krishna and his Miniature fresco of Consort Rada. The story of Krishna and Butter is a story of love, purity and grace that holds us close together. So powerful, it is a reminder that it can conquer all – Lord Krishna and butter will forever be intertwined.
Makhan (butter) has been associated with Lord Krishna since ancient times, and Krishna is considered to be an incarnation of Lord Vishnu, the protector of the world. He was said to sneak into people’s homes at night to steal butter from the stirring pot. However, this act is seen as an expression of His divine love. Lord Krishna declared Varanasi his favorite place and it is believed that the Godhead himself “Krishnasya Devam Swayam” resides in the holy city and many pray to him along the banks of the Ganges. I dived into the ocean of devotees, my mind hypnotized by chants, and found Lord Krishna in the city of Lord Shiva.
A local told me I’d be a fool to leave without trying his favorite dessert, Malaiyo. Made with Makkhan (butter) and winter dew, this unique delicacy is a must-try in Varanasi city between November and January. The sweetness of Malaiyo sent me to a nearby dessert shop! I was blown away by the creamy and fluffy mixture of milk, sugar and spices. Every bite I took, tasted like heavenly heaven, and my taste buds danced with joy. Soothing warmth embraces me, a cozy winter wonderland, and I long for more. So, I asked for more, and a delightful delight was delivered.
But what is Malaiyo?
Malaiyo, also known as Makhan Malai, is an essential part of the Varanasi winter experience. Made from Makhan (clarified butter) and malai (milk cream), it is known as the “King of Sweets” and has been loved by people across India for centuries. Its creamy texture and sweetness can be eaten on its own, as a topping, or as a filling for pastries.
Making of Malaiyo
Ah, winter in Varanasi! A season of celebration and relaxation with a hot cup of tea. But what’s the best way to enjoy the cold weather? Well, the legend can find its answer in the kitchens of Kanpur (then known as Oudh), where the delicious Makhan Malai was born. It’s no wonder people of all ages have enjoyed Malaiyo in India for centuries – the secret recipe remains a mystery, although it’s believed that dewdrops are needed to get the perfect foamy texture! This Makhan Malai, which has taken the world by storm recently, is made with the highest quality ingredients and carefully selected for the most delicious taste.
It takes tenderness and patience to make this heavenly dessert. The milk is boiled on the stove, fueled by cow dung cake, and then carefully stirred with selected ingredients at the ideal temperature. After the mixture has cooled completely, it is filled into buckets and hung under a starry night sky for at least six to eight hours. To make it extra special, fresh milk cream and sugar are added, along with ground cardamom, shredded saffron and a touch of yellow food coloring, and simmered overnight.
The sweet smell of Malaiyo only fills the air in winter, when the weather is cold enough to keep it from melting. But it was worth the wait! It’s low in calories and sugar, a boon for the health-conscious, while serving as a reminder that winter doesn’t last forever. Vendors wheel their carts to enjoy the sweet delight, which is quickly eaten up in many cups – and it tastes as delicious as it looks.
Legend has it that when Shah Jahanabad was being built, the Mughal emperor was ordering food to feed the workers, and Mahammalai was first discovered in Kanpur. Little did they know it would be a delicacy fit for royalty! This delicacy is said to have been prepared by the Khansamas for Prince Murad Baksh and later perfected by Princess Jahanara who designed Chandni Chowk’s first resort.
Adding saffron, mawa and nuts is said to be a Mughal style rustic butter dish known as Makhan Malai since time immemorial. While it is believed that the first incarnation of Daulat Chaat (another variant) came from Muradabad, the city’s cuisine began during the reign of Prince Murad without the wealth of the Mughal court Get the same lip-smacking flavors – thus, Makhan Malai was born!
This traditional winter dessert from Varanasi is often served with steaming sweet milk foam, flavored with saffron and topped with a dollop of fresh cream, served in a Varanasi or Kulhad and garnished with almonds. This is the perfect way to warm up!
The heavenly hospitality kept me warm all night. My heart and soul are filled with pure joy and as I say goodbye, I thank the Lord of Malaiyo for this delightful winter feast – one I will never give up! From its unique creaminess to its wonderful aroma, Malaiyo quickly became my favorite dessert – and to this day, whenever I think of Varanasi, I can’t help but think of Malaiyo’s unique flavors.
