Once chronicled and steeped in culture, India’s breathtaking stepwells are about to be given a new lease on life. Here, in my quixotic quest to explore these magnificent wonders!
My quest to discover the forgotten wonders of Indian architecture started with a step – quite literally – when I saw the beauty of Indian architecture Rani Kiwaf In Gujarat and Neemrana Baori RajasthanUnique to India, stepwells are an integral part of its history and traditional water-harvesting techniques, being used as early as 600 AD and reaching their peak in the twentieth century, but largely lost to today’s technological advances Neglected. With ever-growing curiosity I sought out more and more of these magnificent architectural wonders and socio-cultural sites – and I have not yet been disappointed with what I have found.
While books may have been written on the subject, the history of these stepwells can only be truly appreciated and understood by exploring them. As a curious journalist, I’ve had the pleasure of visiting hundreds of these magnificent stepwells over the years, each with its own unique location and fascinating legend. From their style and function to their sheer presence, which speaks to the historical transformations they have undergone, these stepwells never cease to fascinate. Whether maintaining their original aesthetic or incorporating more modern designs, these architectural marvels are breathtaking.
Two years ago, I was driving outside Ahmedabad when I was told to look out for an ordinary wall in the distance. I don’t know what surprises await me! As I peer over the edge, I’m struck by the magnificence of Adalaj Step-well or Rudabai Vav. Stairs and columns hewn into the stone walls lead down into the abyss, and I felt a wave of awe when I realized it was something I had never seen before – usually, we look up at buildings, but this time I was looking down !
So I started traveling around the country, growing more and more curious about the ancient structures I came across. A year ago, I finally decided to take a closer look at some of the stepwells in Gujarat and Rajasthan, but I was nowhere near the grandeur of the 16th-century Baori I recently stumbled across in the tiny village of Neemrana, just outside Delhi and most Tourists can’t see it.
It was vast, unfathomable, and full of mystery – certainly one of the most remarkable sights I have ever seen. Neemrana is famous for its 15th-century fortress, this Baori in the village is just a short walk from the palace, and its sights speak of the grandeur it once had. Now, it would be great if we could go back in time and witness this magnificent step. Ah, what a sight that must have been! It is truly an architectural marvel, looking more like a fort than a humble staircase!
As I descend into space, my senses are at their peak. The harsh sun turned to gloomy gloom, the air grew cold and sticky, and the tumult of the above-ground world softened. It was a surreal and disorienting experience, not knowing how far I had to go or how deep the mansion was. Then, when I finally hit rock bottom, I really felt like I was in a whole new world. 9 storey deep vaulted building like nothing else on earth! So little is known about its true age that three different dates exist in various sources from the 15th century to 1720.
Legends tell of the ancient Baori built more than 300 years ago by the noble Thakur Janak Singh to provide a haven of rest and respite for weary travelers and businessmen traveling in the area. While there are no records of its exact date of construction, many attribute its beginnings to the 1700s. Also, there are stories that it was built to provide relief during famines and droughts, attesting to its generosity in providing water and cooling. For most of its history the region has been ruled by the illustrious Chauhan family, descendants of Prithviraj Chauhan himself, this Baori is reminiscent of a bygone era and the greatness of its rulers.
This mysterious stepwell, also known as Rani Ki Baoli, has been shrouded in mystery for centuries. The identity of the Queen for whom it is said to be named remains a mystery, and two of its nine floors are submerged in water! To reach the lowest level of the well, one must descend a grand staircase of 170 steps, more than 20 of which are submerged in water. A total of 86 colonnade openings on the ground floor invite visitors to explore its depths! It’s almost hard to comprehend the feat of engineering achieved with this structure centuries ago, spanning nine stories of 20 feet each, it’s mind-boggling! However, due to centuries of neglect, the enchanting beauty of the place is barely recognizable.
The lower floors are clogged with mud and silt and look as if they have long been forgotten. But what a feat it must have been when it was built in the first place – entirely underground! We can only speculate on what grand design the structure’s original plans might have possessed, and how much of its history has been lost over time. What is certain, though, is that no carvings are visible throughout the building – perhaps evidence that it was built after a past era of prosperous architecture.
Walking down the most ramshackle ruins can be a downright stinging experience, and the thought of tumbling down a seemingly bottomless well is enough to make me shudder. Those who can’t stand heights, darkness and creepy reptiles will be in for a real treat. While some stepwells are maintained by the government and local communities, most are littered with steps that are dilapidated, dirty or non-existent. Sometimes, I have to get down and dirty to get the photo I want – literally.
But I can’t deny the sense of accomplishment when I get that perfect photo of these mysterious structures, and I’d kick myself if I didn’t take every opportunity to capture them! Thank goodness I never had a broken bone – I must be a lucky duck! More than just architectural wonders, these stepwells are still active and serve a variety of functions—from collecting water for irrigation to serving as underground temples and summer shelters. Even dry, many of these wonders contained important shrines. Efforts to keep Neemrana Baori alive and thriving have been reignited under a rural tourism project – replete with plans to turn it into a bustling handicraft bazaar.
Repairs and renovations are underway to restore the roof, frames, floors, plaster, and install metal gates and stone parapets. Only time will tell if the artisan market is added to preserve this precious heritage or irreparably damages its historic significance. ASI is working to restore and preserve Derry’s stepwells, and many NGOs are playing an integral role. More important than helping the stepwell, however, is connecting it with the local community.
For a stepwell to last – whether in a city, town or village – it needs to be as beloved by its residents as it has been. This is undoubtedly a daunting task, but it can be done. After all, there is no chance of survival without inspiring admiration for our ancient heritage.
where to live:
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What else to see:
Visit the palatial Neemrana Fort Palace, a storybook architectural marvel! Explore the stunning architecture and soak up the grandeur of this stunning heritage hotel. For just 2000 rupees per person, not only can you enjoy the amazing view, but you also get a free lunch!
