Closely connected to the port towns on the west coast, Udupi is a peaceful city known for its temples, beaches and natural beauty. In this article, I will describe my Udupi vacation experience organized by India Travel Bangalore. It begins with a long twilight drive along the Arabian Sea, a palm-fringed road that takes us away from Udupi from Mangalore. We arrived in Udupi less than two hours from Mangalore, racing against the fresh sea breeze. Later that evening we went to Maple Beach for dinner and I witnessed Yaksha Ghana in the open-air amphitheater outside Fisherman’s Beach Cafe.
Yakshagana: Traditional Dance
Yakshagana is a traditional dramatic form that depicts the story of the Ramayana. The story is about Jatayu, a divine bird that looks like a vulture and is a demigod. Amazingly, the first written witness of Yakshagana is attested to the inscription at the Lakshminarayana Temple in Kurugodu, dating back to 1556 AD. Yakshagana is believed to have been first introduced in Udupi by Naraharitirtha, a disciple of Madhvacharya who developed the Kuchipudi dance.
Similar to opera, Yaksha Ghana is traditionally performed from dusk to dawn, but recently this period has receded to less than three hours. Today, Yasha Gana is an offshoot of passive unfolding, with details drawn from the ceremonial amphitheater, the royal court, temple art, and the imagination of painters. The action unfolds as the decorated actors present the epic epic on stage, while a few others create live music in the background.
Yakshagana instantly captured the audience’s interest by merging pre-classical dance, speech, music, lavish costumes and stage manipulation. At dusk, I experienced Yashakana, what a wonderful experience it was!
The evening ended with a traditional dinner on banana leaves at Fisherman’s Bay Beach Cafe, and I must commend them for their spectacular spicy seafood and hospitality. Yakshagana is known as Badaga Thittu in northern Karnataka and Thenku Thittu in southern Karnataka.
In Udupi, it is possible to take part in this cultural performance, either on the beach of Malpe or in the family temple. This show instantly gives you a comprehensive look at Karnataka’s cultural heritage.
Marie Island: Coconut Island (Thonse Par)
The next morning begins the sea experience trip to Malpe Beach. We left early in the morning as the beach gets hot quickly by noon. We took a blue boat from Malpe Beach to the neighbouring island of Sainte Marie, which has a fascinating history. Sailing to St. Mary’s Island, also known as Coconut Island or Tonsepar, means seeing the ruins of Madagascar up close!
Madagascar was once connected to India, and scientists believe the island was created by subterranean volcanic activity. The unusual columnar rhyolite lava is all that was left over from the Madagascar rift 88 million years ago. Vasco da Gama erected a cross on the island in 1498 and named it after the Virgin Mary.
It’s remarkable to think how ancient travelers named places and we, modern travelers, just mention them in our writings. St. Mary’s Island, with its ocean blue and green coconut palms, is the perfect place for a day’s picnic or seaside relaxation. It’s open from 9am to 9pm and the visit ended with my adrenaline pumping! You can’t go to St. Mary’s Island without paragliding for a bird’s-eye view, can you?
Cathedral of St. Lawrence or Artur
We stopped at Karkala on our way from Udupi to Kudremukh in Karnataka, a delightful 17th century Roman Catholic church surrounded by a valley. The Basilica of St. Lawrence’s Basilica, also known as Artur’s Cathedral, was built in 1759 and is known for performing countless miracles. Lawrence was a 3rd century Spanish saint who is said to have studied sacred books and Christian perfection under the guidance of Sistus. He is known for his extraordinary ability to communicate with God through prayer.
January is the month when the Attur Jatreor Attur festival is held, a wonderful holiday for the church, suggesting that St. Lawrence will not deter those who come to serve him. The acquisition of a 100-foot tower in 1997, the restoration of the Miracle Pond/Pushkarini in 1998 and the Twin Gates in 1999 are just a few of the latest developments. The most delightful aspect is that this peaceful chapel overlooks a dilapidated orphanage and a school. Despite its location on the outskirts of Calcala, the Church of St. Lawrence is definitely worth a visit if you plan to spend a few days in or around Udupi.
A day in Kudremuka
While most tourists come to Udupi for its temples and roaring beaches, the eastern part of Karnataka’s coastal region is also home to a wide variety of natural beauty. Tourism India prepared an unconventional surprise for us through the impenetrable green mountains of Kudremukh, which turned out to be an adventurous turning point. While the lush forests of Kudurekuha are about a 2-hour drive away, it’s well worth spending a night or two here.
Bhagvathi Nature Camp (the only accommodation in the area) offers a wonderful experience with log cabins, authentic Kannada food and jungle tours. There are two ways to explore Kudremukh, depending on the purpose of your trip. Check into the Bhagvathi Nature Camp, stroll around Lakya Tailing Pond, or hike up the Kudremukka Mountains. A Jeep Safari is an ideal option, as is a hike, which can take up to 7 hours each way.
Also, as Bhagwati Nature Camp is home to the king cobra, I do not recommend visiting the venue alone. Always bring a crew member on the nature trails! I stayed in the first cabin #1, a spacious, clean, highly eco-friendly room with modern amenities. The staff are courteous and friendly and will do everything in their power to help you. When we met Sambar, we drove up to the top of Kudremukh. However, the highlight of the day was witnessing a lyrical and Instagram-worthy sunset from the unique peak of Kudremukka.
Varanga: Pastoral Water Temple
On the way back from Kudremukh, after an hour’s drive through dense jungle, we stopped at the scenic village of Varanga. The village belongs to Hebri Taluk in Udupi, but is an hour’s drive from the city center. If you are going from Karkala to Agumbe or vice versa, you can stop by this temple. Varanga is a small community frequented by Jain pilgrims and others because of the ancient Varanga water temple. Jain temples, Chandranath, Kere and Neminath Basadi are the main attractions here!
Ancient temples like these carry sacred energies from generation to generation, and visiting them allows you to experience a small slice of our rich history. A blue boat will take you to the picturesque Jain Mutt in the middle of the lake. The temple buildings are built of stone, with exquisite carvings and rich statues of gods. A visit to this temple in the middle of the lake, surrounded by lotus and water lilies, is exhilarating.
Udupi Shri Krishna Temple
Back on the mainland the next day, we visited the famous Shree Krishna Temple in Udupi and Manipal University. Philosopher Madhvacharya founded the Maadhva branch of Hinduism in Udupi in the early 13th century, introducing dualism and challenging the more traditional Advaita philosophy. Madhvacharya begins pilgrimage at the Krishna Temple in the center of the city to complete this quest. Krishna is one of many incarnations of Vishnu.
It was because of his piety that the temple became a famous place of pilgrimage. I like the simple architecture of this temple, which is similar to Aashram and includes eight Mathas: Admaru, Kaniyoor, Krishnapura, Palimaru, Pejavara, Puttige, Sodhe and Shirur. Ashta Mathagalu is their collective name. Daily worship is offered at these sacred Mathas, each with their own deity known as Pattada Devaru.
Krishnamatta in particular, is famous all over the world for his sacred Devata philosophical rituals. All Matha expenses are voluntarily borne by the devotees. Since Madhvacharya is also the founder of the Dwaita School of Vedanta, the temple provides a large number of meals for school children every day.
Thousands of devotees and students dine at the shrine every day. Donation by Anna Prasada is the name of the service. Shri Krishna Temple is surrounded by several thousand-year-old temples.
Hastahirpa Heritage Village Museum
After visiting Shree Krishna Temple, we drive to the Hasta Shilpa Heritage Village Museum in Manipal. Nestled among wild jackfruit trees, this living museum houses a collection of well-preserved historic dwellings over generations. The property’s first owner, Vijayanath Shenoy, dreamed of creating a one-of-a-kind ethnographic museum, so he chose to put his traditional home to work.
The residence was originally a courtyard house built in the 1980s. Hasta Shilpa still retains every uncia in its diverse collection of handicrafts and furniture, be it kitchen utensils or materials collected from abandoned buildings. Vijayanath Shenoy abruptly abandoned the residence due to the loss of privacy caused by advertising around it.
As a result, the house was left deserted for over 15 years. Until the Hasta Shilpa Trust restored it with the help of the Norwegian and Danish governments. The residential museum opened to the public on November 14, 2017, from September to February.
Manipal University
Udupi was an emerging financial center until 1953 when Manipal University changed everything. This community is a natural learning hub for students and curious visitors. We visited WGSHA, the first living culinary arts museum in India, documented in Limca Book of Records in 2020.
First of all, the pot shape of the building is quite stunning. The same goes for the facility, where I was lucky enough to see some unique kitchen gadgets donated by renowned Indian chef Vikas Khanna and others with a passion for cooking.
WGSHA. Tens of thousands of kitchen equipment worth millions! Our time in Udupi ends at Manipal University and the next day we head to Padua and Gokarna for some off the beaten track beach activities.
