by Debadutta Dash
Northwest Asia Weekly
The cobblestone streets of Old San Juan (Photo by Ruth Bayang)
I would never have thought of visiting Puerto Rico had it not been for Ekta Saini who kindly invited us to the Miss World finals. Shree Saini is the mother of Miss World USA 2021, and I don’t know much about Puerto Rico. US territory. I vividly remember repeated cable news footage of President Trump casually throwing rolls of paper towels at a cheering crowd after a church in San Juan, Puerto Rico was destroyed by Hurricane Maria in 2017. So, by visiting Puerto Rico, we thought we could at least support their tourism economy.
We booked our hotel and rental car through Expedia and spent five days at the Condado Palms Hotel in San Juan, located in an upscale neighborhood next to the most popular Condado Beach. There are no direct flights from Seattle, so we had a connecting flight via Houston on our way to and from Newark.
I was very disappointed with the hotel’s breakfast buffet which included some solid scrambled eggs, bacon and sausage. So, I went out and explored nearby breakfast spots. Lavoila. Senor Baguette is a good breakfast spot a few hundred yards away and is known for its excellent Puerto Rican coffee. My eggs benedict with avocado was the perfect 10. The waiter Abner was kind enough to recommend some local eating places and beach visits. After breakfast, we followed Abner’s suggestion and walked to Condado Beach and then to Old San Juan.
Fish are very popular. Traditional breakfast foods include criollo-style beans (frijoles) with rice, grilled meats such as steak or sausage, fried plantain chips called “tostones”, and more. Mangu and Fufu de Platoon Verde are traditional Puerto Rican dishes. Fufu de Platoon Verde is a savory dish made with plantains, minced pork and spices like mofongo, while Mangu does not include fried green plantain or fried pork and is usually served as an appetizer or as a side dish to fish or meat dishes. We tried some grilled red snapper, seafood paella, beans, rice and Pique.
Castillo San Cristóbal, a UNESCO World Heritage Site (Photo by Ruth Bayang)
Fruits such as papaya, pineapple, banana and coconut are abundant. We bought some and had a great lunch at the beach. Avocados are huge. I bought one that was almost 3 lbs.Note: You cannot bring any agricultural products into the continental United States
I found Juquilas, the most delicious and sweet pastry made from flour, sugar, butter and guava paste. The ingredients are kneaded together, flattened into discs, then wrapped in a guava filling and deep fried. Some are baked and look like croissant rolls. I tried them all and they were literally out of this world!
Once you’re in Puerto Rico, you can’t simply miss the diverse cultures on this paradise island, including Spanish, African, American, and Taino. The Ashford Mandarin Pavilion near our hotel in San Juan, Ponce’s Treasure Island Chinatown Teahouse and Bangkok and Mumbai restaurants are all popular attractions that reflect the island’s cultural fusion. Just across from the Chinatown Teahouse, I could see Centro Islamo de Ponce, one of Puerto Rico’s six Islamic centers. Then I read about the massive Chinese immigration to Puerto Rico in the 19th century, and according to the latest census, there are about 2,000 Chinese in Puerto Rico. The Muslim population will be around 5,000, consisting mainly of Palestinian and Jordanian immigrants who arrived between 1958 and 1962. There are more than 3,000 people of Indian descent. After a picturesque approximately 60-minute drive to the top of New Govardhan in Gurabo, we made an unplanned visit to the International Krishna Consciousness Society Temple. We were amazed by the view of the valley from the top of the mountain, surrounded by many fruit-laden papaya, banana, guanabana, passion fruit and other trees.
Once an impassable fortified city, San Juan is the capital and beating heart of Puerto Rico.
Old San Juan, also known as Old Town, takes you back in time as you walk through cobblestone streets and century-old buildings that have been expertly restored, colorful, and turned into everything. From theaters to hotels, cafes, restaurants, fascinating museums, all while reflecting a vibrant culture, Old San Juan has it all. Don’t miss a visit to San Juan National Historic Site, and don’t forget to bring your camera.
Here are some of the things I’ve put together for your planned or unplanned trip to Puerto Rico:
Puerto Rico is a tropical island, which means it is usually hot, rains a lot, and has very high humidity. Difficult to keep dry. For longer stays, using a clothes dryer can help.
Taxes and roads are hard and rough. The Puerto Rican government recently passed IVU—a value-added tax (basically a sales tax) that increases the retail price of most goods by about 10.5 percent (fuel, food, and hotel rooms are exempt). Still, many essential government services are struggling. This is especially true on the road, where even if you’re a cautious driver, it can take a toll on your car. There are potholes everywhere.
Renting a car is a must. Public transportation does not exist in Puerto Rico outside the capital of San Juan. As a result, almost everyone travels in a private car. Uber and Lyft are only in and around San Juan. Parking spaces are small, so don’t rent a large car or SUV even if you’re used to it.
Traffic is a mess. Taxis are only shared around San Juan, airports, hotels and resorts, while ride-sharing services like Uber and Lyft do not exist on the island. As a result, everyone in Puerto Rico drives to work, which, combined with poor road maintenance, means traffic is an absolute nightmare—especially during rush hour.
Rum – Puerto Rico distills some of the best rums in the world, including Bacardi, Don Q and their biggest secret, Barrilito (which you can’t get on the mainland).
Puerto Rico’s weather is perfect for growing Arabica beans, which have a more refined, creamier flavor than regular robusta beans from Latin and South America. They have the only coffee the Pope drinks (Alto Grande).
Old San Juan. Five hundred years of history make Old San Juan, a UNESCO World Heritage Site, a unique city. Charming cobblestone streets and colorful old Spanish buildings make it one of the most beautiful cities. I’ve heard that if you visit during the “Tricolor” festival, you’ll see the biggest block party in the world!
beach. With a warm year-round climate, Puerto Rico is a perpetual summer that’s perfect for the beach. They have beaches ranging from fine white sand in Culebra to coarse yellow sand in Monabo, black black sand in Mayaguez, and calcareous sand in Cabo Rojo. There are many beaches where you will find yourself and a few seagulls. Many have picnic tables. My personal favorite is Playa Punta Borinquen.
El Yunque – The only tropical rainforest in the U.S. forest system, El Yunque covers 28,000 acres and receives more than 200 inches of rain each year. Several trails lead to a beautiful waterfall amid lush greenery.
El Coqui and Gallina De Palo (Eleutherodactylus coqui) are small frogs endemic to Puerto Rico whose males call loudly at night. This small amphibian has become a national symbol of Puerto Rican identity. Gallina De Palo or green iguanas are everywhere. Stay away from them.
Honestly, five days is not enough to visit and experience Puerto Rico. When you visit Puerto Rico, assume that you are going to visit all the places in Puerto Rico as much as possible, and if it’s your first time, I recommend you at least visit again. I would say at least a week is fine. One day, walking through Old San Juan, drinking and eating in the evening. Day trip to El Yunque (Tropical Rainforest). Day trip to Ponce, much like Spokane, dry. The art museum is beautiful; the King Cream Helados, La Guancha Boardwalk and the Castillo trio – Serrallés, Cruceta del Vigia and the Japanese Garden are natural treasures. Spend a day or two soaking up the sun at Playa Punta Borinquen Beach in Aguadia, perhaps relaxing or meditating. If you’re in the Old San Juan/Condado/Escambrone Beach/Miramar area, plan to walk around and have a good meal.
Puerto Rico as a destination is a complete package – beaches, nature, food, coffee, music, culture and history. I will definitely go back again.
Debadutta can be reached info@nwasianweekly.com.
