Nestled in India’s tranquil southern region, Chettinad is a gem of architectural marvels and aromatic curries waiting to be discovered by the intrepid soul who dares venture off the beaten track. Chettinad beckons you with its brightly colored mansions that whisper stories of a bygone era. Step into history as you explore these mysterious ruins, where each pillar holds the secrets of a forgotten age.
Whether you want to explore ancient temples, shop at traditional markets, or simply enjoy the peaceful surroundings, Chettinad has something for you. Our list of the best things to do will have you wondering why Chettinad remains such a closely guarded secret.
Visit the stunning Asangudi Palace
Just 24 km from Kalecudi Atangudi Palace Standing proudly, it boasts an impressive 600 beautifully designed windows and 64 magnificent rooms. Tiles imported from Italy adorn this architectural marvel, which is breathtaking. Not to be outdone, the stained glass came all the way from Belgium to add a lot of color to the palace. When you step inside, prepare to be wowed by the huge wooden doors beautifully carved and the charming jharokhas that adorn them. Surrounded by ornate columns and covered with the famous Chettinad tiles, the vast courtyard beckons you to explore further.
Built in 1912 by the revered Dr. Annamalai Chettiyar, the famous Chettinad Palace is more than a house, it is a building. This is brilliant proof. Each room within this palace has a unique character and is filled with precious memories from a lifetime of the family that once called it home. Although the original owner, Sri MAM Ramaswamy, has long since said goodbye to the palace, his extended family still uses it. When they’re not enjoying its splendor, the palace keeps its doors open to the public, though entry is a modest 50 INR per person. No visit to Chettinad would be considered complete without indulging in the grandeur of this abode.
Walking tour of Chettinard House
A walking tour of Chettinard House is an absolute must for every discerning traveller. During the glorious 19th century, when the Chettinad region was at the height of its prosperity, more than 10,000 magnificent mansions were built, testifying to the region’s unparalleled strength in trade and banking. While many have fallen into disrepair, hundreds have survived.
Ornate exteriors and handcrafted details allude to the wealth and status of the former occupants. Burmese teak wood floors, Italian marble tiles in bathrooms and terraces. A harmonious fusion of architectural styles awaits your eager gaze in these splendid buildings. Marvel at the timeless appeal of exquisite Italian tile work, gorgeous Burmese teak, and traditional Chedia aesthetics.
Behind the grand façade hides a sprawling courtyard and living quarters that once housed as many as 800 family members. The buildings are well laid out and symmetrical, with separate areas for men and women. They are designed for natural cooling and feature high ceilings, large windows and open central courtyards. So strap on your walking shoes and embark on a journey through time as grandeur and elegance blend in a symphony of architectural splendor.
The Divine Serenity of Vairavanpatti Temple
Just 15 kilometers from Karaikudi, Vairavanpatti Temple is dedicated to Lord Murugan, the Hindu god of war and victory. Legend has it that it dates back 1,200 years and its construction dates back to the famous Pandya Dynasty in the 8th century. However, it wasn’t until the 18th century that Nagarata transformed it into the stone temple we see today. Its 5-story gopuram (temple tower) attracts devotees from far and wide.
Step inside and you’re greeted by the magnificent Mandapa, or colonnaded hall, adorned with beautifully carved stone columns. As you explore the temple grounds, you’ll stumble upon hidden nooks and crannies that hold secrets from the past. The pillars of the building are decorated with sculptures depicting various gods and mythological figures. In the inner hall, the main god Murugan stands majestically, exuding divine power. Two great festivals, Thaipusam in January and Panguni Utilan in March, are celebrated at this revered place.
During these auspicious occasions, devotees carry Kawadi on their shoulders as a heartfelt offering to Lord Murugan. These Kavadhi are elaborate wooden structures adorned with splendid peacock feathers and fragrant flowers to symbolize their unwavering faith and devotion. Vairavanpatti Murugan Temple offers visitors a glimpse of the architectural and sculptural excellence of the Chettinad region.
Visit Sri Sole Andharwar Temple
Nestled on the outskirts of the village of Palathur, lies another hidden treasure – the Sri Solai Andavar Temple, situated in a picturesque and peaceful setting amidst sacred groves, hence the name “Solai Valartha Aiyyannar”, which in Tamil translates to ” God of the Garden”. This temple is dedicated to the revered household deity Kuladeivam who lives in numerous communities in and around Sivaganga. In his main shrine, Lord Ayanar sits, whip in hand, exuding power and authority. He is revered as the god of rain and the guardian of livestock, people, crops, land and the natural world.
It is believed that Lord Ayanar worked tirelessly to protect the village boundaries from any intrusion by malicious forces. Standing prominently in front of the temple is a white horse, Sri Solai Andavar’s revered vahana, or holy chariot. The horse symbolizes the personification of Sole Andavar’s power. Devotees of Lord Solai Andavar fulfill their vows by participating in a sacred ceremony known as ‘Kuthirai Eduppu’ (horse offering) during the vibrant Ayyanar temple festival. The ceremony involves the dedication of brightly colored terracotta warriors and elephants, which are placed around the majestic temple of Lord Sole Andawar.
In the temple, only men, elderly women and children can see the statue of Sri Solai Andavar. Young women, on the other hand, can enter the temple but are asked to keep a respectful distance when approaching the main deity. The temple also has an extensive temple pond. While bathing in this sacred body of water is permitted, the use of body soap and shampoo is strictly prohibited, as it is essential to maintain the pristine purity of the pond. Devout followers are honored to offer pori (a delicious popcorn) to the fish in the pond.
Witness the making of Athangudi tiles
When you set foot in Chettinad, you’re likely to wander among the stately mansions built by the affluent Chettyar community. Honestly, those vibrant tiles adorning the floors and walls are simply impossible to ignore.Behind the scenes, a team of skilled masons hold the keys to India’s famous buildings Asangudi Tiles, known worldwide for its durability and lustrous appeal. These crafty artisans guard their trade secrets with the utmost care, ensuring that each tile is a masterpiece in itself. But what really sets these handcrafted wonders apart is the exceptional quality of the materials used, sustainably sourced and captivating, that only add to their irresistible beauty.
Originally, savvy businessmen would have imported these exquisite decorative tiles all the way from Japan. However, they soon realized that restoring or replacing these imported gems was no easy task. To solve this dilemma, they took their own hands and supported the establishment of a tile factory in the charming village of Asangudi. Fast forward almost 200 years and Athangudi still reign supreme in the art of making these fascinating tiles. Each tile is carefully crafted and perfected by skilled hands, a truly laborious and time-consuming process.
The makers are convinced that it is the local soil that gives these tiles their unique character, making it a breeze to create a range of geometric and floral designs. In this area, there are close to 100 talented artisans of Athangudi tiles. You have the opportunity to visit any of these workshops and see the whole process unfold before your own eyes.
Chettinad: Where to Stay
CGH Vaisalam A 1900s mansion in the village of Kanadukatan, it showcases the luxurious lifestyle of the respected Chhatiyars, a community known for its thriving trading activities. The hotel’s 15 guest rooms feature high ceilings, polished windows and cozy, intimate comforts. The furniture is in a period style and is made of the finest Burmese teak wood and the floors and walls are inlaid with handcrafted Aathangudy tiles. Every step you take, you become part of this rich history.
From architectural marvels and fine dining to cultural experiences, Chettinad offers an array of treasures waiting to be discovered. The region may be off the beaten track, but the rewards are rich for those willing to venture into the unknown. Indulge your senses in the ambience of a traditional market, where the scent of exotic spices fills the air and bustling with eager shoppers. As you haggle for the perfect souvenir, get lost in the vibrant colors and intricate patterns of local crafts to remind you of this remarkable journey.
