Everything in the ecosystem enjoys aesthetic and spiritual values, as I realized during a recent trip to the Sun Temple in the small village of Modhera in the Mehsana district of Gujarat. The temple is marked by lush landscapes and exotic carvings farther than the naked eye can see. Through its exquisite architecture, art and craftsmanship, you can see ancient history and tell its era from a wide angle. Gujarat has 100 sun temples, and Modra Sun Temple is a mythological masterpiece, an ode to a series of art and artists, they have collected various sculptures to commemorate the sun god Surya. Once the pride of Cholukya era, it is now listed as a UNESCO World Heritage Site and is open to the public for sightseeing.
Modra Sun Temple: Introduction
The surreal landscape of this impressive temple complex will surely take you away from the ordinary daily life. In ancient and ancient India, the Surya (Sun) Temple was a court used to hold elaborate religious ceremonies, whether for prayer or sacrifice. Although most of these sun temples are now in ruins and affected by the invasion, some of them have been excavated and repaired by the ruling government. Fortunately, despite being plundered by Allauddin Khilji, the Modhera Sun Temple still held its ground. Knowing that Hindus would not worship a broken temple, Allauddin Khilji overthrew the sacred complex, desecrated and destroyed every statue, in order to steal secret wealth and hurt the religious feelings of Hindu followers.
Now let’s skip to the good part, I will tell you how this temple complex was built by King Bhimdev I in 1026 AD and why it is so special. The Modhera Sun Temple was built on the Pushpavati River, following the principles of Vastu Shastra. It is one of the seven Mandirs dedicated to the sun god Arya. It is conceived in such a way that the first rays of sunlight that rise at the solar equinox and the summer solstice illuminate the impression of Lord Surya. Despite its age, you can’t help but praise the existence of scientific engineering and construction techniques. These scientific engineering and architectural techniques have made this monument a masterpiece of art with elegant and complex stone carvings.
Each sculpture and temple depicts different stages of life and human emotions from friendship to love to death. This temple also has far-reaching significance to Hindus. Legend has it that after defeating Ravana in a combo, Lord Ram and Sita made a pilgrimage. The Modhera Sun Temple in Chaulukya style is divided into three axially aligned sections: Kund, Reservoir, Sabhamandapa, Assembly Hall and Gudhamandapa, and Shrine Hall. Sabhamandapa was built on a paved scaffolding as an independent structure, it was placed slightly away from Kudamandapa.
Both have an inverted lotus-shaped base, but the different roofs have long since collapsed. Legend has it that each of these parts was once a standard bearer of great wealth. In its room are stored a statue of Lord Surya, a golden chariot and a hidden room full of gold coins and inexplicable gems. Allaudin Khilji wanted all this because he thought he was superior and worthy of all the extravagance. Thousands of years later, we, as tourists, stood on the podium of this huge temple complex, telling stories about the wealth that has been shirked and the stories of tatters.
Modhera Sun Temple Kund
After entering the temple, the first thing that catches your attention is the huge rectangular Ram or Suryakunda. The Surya Kund of Modhera Sun Temple is surrounded by stones and has four terraces and a jagged step to the bottom. These steps lead directly to the reservoir through Kirti Torana, however, the main entrance is in the west, with two well-decorated pavilions. The door frame is engraved with lotus flowers, leaves and 11th century Ruchaka pilasters. The short mandapa and the second step well Kuta belong to the 10th century.
The first step is a semicircle, while the remaining rectangular steps connect one platform to another at right angles. At the bottom of Modhera Sun Temple Kund, small statues of Vishnu, such as Shitala, are gathered. Since we are not allowed to take the stairs to the foot of Surya Kund, I am happy to parade around its flawless structure, immersed in its glorious past. Want to know how the royal family prayed in this majestic temple when Garbha Griha held a gleaming Surya statue in its confines?
It can be imagined that a thousand years ago, when the first ray of sunlight fell from the golden statue, heralding a new day, ordained priests dressed in red would convene religious ceremonies. Red is very similar to the sun. Therefore, royal families and saints wear clothes of this color and use red utensils to please Surya Devta during ceremonies. Then, the entire temple complex will be immersed in the surround sound of chants and bells, pushing the town to bathe in the morning and participate in prayer.
Gudhamandapa or Assembly Hall
Gudhamandapa is a Sanskrit translation of an auditorium, which is covered with a rectangular plan on all sides. In Modhera Sun Temple, its Gudhamandapa is the main pavilion on the central axis of the temple, located directly in front of the front hall. In the past, this well-ventilated Gudamandapa used to be a hall where the court gathered to consult influential subjects. Therefore, in order to prevent distractions, the architect kept its inner walls relatively flat without any decoration. The ceiling is flat, but divided into several fascias supported by walls and pillars. However, the central bay showed slight signs of decoration.
Although Shikhara no longer exists, there are stone slabs carved with rosettes on the roof of the passage. Gudhamandapa and Garbhgriha are divided into almost equal shares and have rectangular planes with one headland on the smaller side and two headlands on the longer side. These protrusions form the entrance and rear of the shrine. The outer wall of Gudhamandapa has perforated stone windows and a door. The path surrounding the walls of Garbhgriha and Gudhamandapa is called Pradakshinamarga.
Each window on the outer wall of Gudhamandapa displays prominent Surya carvings, the most prominent of which is the standing posture of Surya, a lotus flower driven by seven horses. Other sculptures include Agni Devta, Dikpals, Ganesha, Saraswati, Varuna and Vishwakarma. Each sculpture is marked with a small cornice called Udgam.
Garbhagriha or the holy place
The Garbhagriha Shrine (sanctum sanctorum) of Modhera Sun Temple is an 11-foot space built on a square plan. The gate of Garbhagriha Shrine was annihilated by Khilji, with sculptures of Surya, surrounded by passionate couples and dancers. What’s interesting is that in the design of this sanctuary, to some extent, the first ray of sunlight will always flick Surya Devta’s idol on the summer solstice or solar equinox. Although what is even more fascinating is that at noon, when the sun is shining over the temple, there is no shadow at all!
This temple used to have two compartments, an upper compartment and a lower compartment. But since the foundation of the upper cell collapsed, I can only imagine what it looked like when there were deities inside. The lower cell still exists, presumably used for storage during the Chaulukya Empire. The inner walls of Garbhagriha are not decorated, while the outer walls are somewhat decorated. Outside the basement, the side walls of Garbhagraha are called Mandovara and the central wall is called Bhadra. Chaitya windows are called Kevala.
The walls and windows of the Sun Temple are decorated with decorations, with eclectic sculptures of Lord Surya, Gomba or Kalash (pitchers), gods, musicians, dancers, gods, and Jory bearers. The middle part has an oval disk. No matter how simple the internal structure is, you will notice that the outer walls of the shrine are admirably decorated. Exquisite carvings run through the floor and walls. The base (Pitha or Adhisthana) has two square components (Bhat), followed by cyma recta carvings and an inverted lotus shape called Padma or Padmaka.
Pitha is the same as Gudhamandapa, but relatively small and richly carved with floral decorations. Between the grooves, a sharp edge (Antarita or Astragal) is placed, and above it is a thin type called Chhaja-this one is decorated with Gajathara (elephant) and Narathara (male) carvings. In Sun Temple Modhera, you will find various types of columns: short columns, long columns, semicircular columns and triangular arched columns. The columns of Gudhamandapa and Sabhamandapa are short and tall, with an octagonal shaft and a square element, with kalash and floral patterns on each side.
Sabhamandapa or Rangamandapa
Sabhamandapa or Rangamandapa is a ballroom with 52 exquisitely carved pillars on each side. Its carved appearance presents the impression of a star-shaped outline. According to its architectural style, some people commented that Sabhamandapa was added to the Sun Temple very late. Nevertheless, it is a fascinating structure with a series of erotic characters. The sculptures of gods and dancers above Narathara are called Rajasena, the side panels are decorated with Vedic and floral motifs, Asanawhich motifs surround the hall, and Kakshasana slopes outward to provide support for the court.
The Modra Sun Temple also had a pyramid-shaped roof, but it no longer exists. In contrast, today, you will find a 23-foot-high walnut-shaped horizontal ceiling supported by octagonal columns. These pillars are decorated with countless bouquets.
On the other hand, Torana (pointed arch) emerges from the descending frame of the column, in the shape of a semicircle or triangle. Both have a large number of decorative figures, and now, most of them are destroyed! Makara-Torana is named after the Makara illustration in parentheses. Chitra Torana represents the drawing.
On the way out, you can also visit the archaeological museum in the museum.
Visiting time: 7 am to 6 pm
Tickets: INR 25 for Indian nationals, INR 300 for foreign nationals
Ample parking space, although the toilet facilities are not very good. There is a restaurant next door. If you want to have some snacks and drink tea to relax in the evening.
