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Berlin “Borchardt” operator opens “Café am Neuen See”

widthWhen you sit on the beer stool temporarily located in front of the “Café am Neuen See”, you can hear soft knocks and drilling sounds. The construction of a classic country house and beer garden in Tiergarten in Berlin has not yet been completed. Today, it will reopen after a four-year construction phase. Operator Roland Mary (Roland Mary) told the beer bench how they blew up two old shelters that were previously located at the site in a huge operation during the restaurant’s operation. For this reason, guests and employees had to leave the cafe briefly. Then it “buffed” once, a cloud of dust, and then everyone could return to their place. “very funny.”

Roland Mary is a trained optician and talented anecdote teller, he is already an outside-theatre actor, world traveler, musician-very active anyway. Since the 90s, he has been one of the key figures in Berlin’s gastronomy scene, passionate and confident. The spectacle of dismantling the bunker as a gourmet visit sums up his way of cooking: When you visit one of his restaurants, anything can happen, and this is the attraction-the same is true of the famous “Borchardt” Französische Strasse restaurant, it Culinary flagship store. There you can see politicians, media people, strange birds in the crowd, very ordinary Berliners and real stars. If the “Borchardt” on the east is what people often call the “Republic Canteen”, the “Café am Neuen See” on the west is the beer garden of the capital.

Like the cutlet in “Borchardt”

This cafe has been owned by Mary since 1994. Second World War At Lake Neuer, “garbage from around”, according to Mary, the cafe was built in the past few decades: a low-rise building located between two sandpits, adjacent to the picturesque river bank Beer garden. Over the years, this cafe has been famous for its pizzas. As Mary said, like the schnitzel in “Borchardt”, it is very thin.

Roland Mary prefers to run his restaurants, including cafes, down-to-earth.

Picture: Andreas Payne

This is actually the main reason for new construction work in recent years. The old bunker is responsible for this. In each 250 square meter space, only 15 square meters can be used due to the thick concrete walls. Due to lack of space, Mary came up with the idea of ​​a space-saving pizza. Pizza is very popular. However, in the kitchen of a cafe in the center of the capital, it is not a fish fillet that one might want. Therefore, Mary decided to blow up the bunker a few years ago to build a new building. This is legally feasible, but costly. With the help of Berlin architect Patzschke & Partner, a complex of buildings has been established in the area since 2017, which again adopts the old shape and is as friendly to the climate as possible. The barn-style restaurant, almost completely facing the lake, has wooden beams and a fireplace. Mary even built the old stone of the Berlin Olympic Stadium, which now provides enough space to accommodate an open kitchen.

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