TonA thousand dead lobsters are enough. This is the decision of Philipp Kovacs after years of work day after day to transport large crustaceans to the afterlife or pan. Now he no longer wants to watch the lobster fidgeting in the boiling water for a few minutes, nor does he worry about whether the best product is in Brittany or Nova Scotia. Therefore, he used the forced breaking of the first blockade to fundamentally rearrange his kitchen. Since then, he has been cooking in accordance with the motto of “here and now”, with the first slogan representing regionality and the second slogan representing seasonality. Since Kovacs believes that many people have the same feelings as him, he named one of his three menus “Future” and does not eat fish and meat at all.
However, Philipp Kovacs is not cooking in a futuristic environment, but in the ruins of Germany’s own architectural horror that messed up in the 1970s. His restaurant is named after the top local vineyard Goldberg and is located in Fellbacher Schwabenlandhalle. This is a soulless monster made of exposed concrete and zinc panels, despite the fact that it has managed to spin a monster in this devastating environment. Cozy cocoons made of cherry wood, ostrich leather, linen curtains and gold leaf pillars.Here, we can confidently look forward to the future of “here and now”, but the kitchen is the first to greet us, and we are greeted by farewell greetings from the vast world of culinary art: Hamachi, Bonito, Finger Limes, Japanese pies Custard Chawanmushi and Japanese ginger Myoga We are almost a little eager in light of the upcoming abandonment-but he dim All in all, I became more confident immediately afterwards. Because it is full of the stomachs of Swabian-Hällischen country pigs and Bavarian prawns, it tastes like the exotic stepsister of Swabian Maultasche, and it exemplarily shows that regionality does not necessarily end with regionality.
This is exactly the meaning of Kovacs. He now purchases 90% of his goods within a range of 100 kilometers, and has no restrictions on the remaining 10%-this is a pragmatic regionalism without Scandinavia. The dogmatism of the pioneers in the new district has actually found a way to show in the future. If it is as delicate and harmonious as smoked stewed celery with apple mustard seed salad, cucumber broth, smoked yogurt and black forest miso, we are not afraid anyway. In the future, when such black forest sturgeons are served, we will welcome them with a happy mood anyway: marinated in a sauce made of miso and sea asparagus, briefly charred, spread on a bed of cassava, surrounded by sea asparagus foam, Topped with caviar, it is aromatic and full of life, more reminiscent of the Baroque style of the Vatican than the brutalism of Württemberg’s concrete.
