Saturday, June 20, 2026

What the return of Phoebe Philo means for fashion


DThe Phoebe Philo case is reminiscent of Jil Sander’s career in many ways. Their path is marked by fashion innovation, but they have also recently been marked by resignation and comeback. She founded her own brand in Hamburg in 1968 and sold it to Milan in 2000. In the next twelve years, she came back twice. There is a longer rest period in between.

Chanel of her generation

Jennifer Wibkin

Editor of the “Life” section of the Frankfurter Allgemeine Zeitung.

No, Jill Sander will not come back now, not the third time. However, on Monday, I heard a sentence that might have come from her: “I look forward to getting in touch with people again.” Phoebe Philo spoke at the turn of the millennium, Jil Sander. Therefore, women in their 30s and older who think fashion is great cheered. This return is not the premiere: At the beginning of the millennium, Phoebe Philo, then chief designer of Chloé, used the Paddington bag to fix the it-bag in the fashion system. The New York Times called her the Coco Chanel of her generation because of her refined appearance, high-necked trousers and silk shirt.

Celine of the year: Philo's first series in 2010


Celine of the year: Philo’s first series in 2010
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Picture: Helmut Frick


The British woman stayed for five years. In 2006, she left Chloé, had a child, and no longer had anything to do with fashion. She returned in 2009 and is now the chief designer of Céline, shaping the next ten years with a distinctive style. When fashion wanders between Balmain-style nightclubs and Balenciaga-style spaces, it provides more than just excellent clothes for life. They are always female-friendly designs. Millennials bought the trio package from their first salary. Older women with more money used these fragments to build a cloakroom. Joan Didion poses during a Philo campaign at the age of 80.

10% of LVMH

However, in 2017, the British woman left, moved from Paris to London to live with her family, and disappeared as a rare representative of a guild that knew nothing about social media. It didn’t hurt her. The fact that LVMH has entered the brand shows how big it is still, and the brand will operate under its name from January. However, she did not leave more than 10% of the shares in LVMH, one of the world’s two largest luxury goods companies. The rest is Phoebe Philo.



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